Double Brushed Polyester knit fabric is showing up more and more in the fabric stores these days, so while I tend to prefer natural fibers, I thought it was time to research the advantages and disadvantages of this fabric, as well as provide some tips on working and even possibly smocking with brushed poly. Below is a video if you prefer to listen, so let's dive in!

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Brushed Polyester fabric is a single knit jersey blend fabric made from 90-96% polyester and 4-10% spandex. It has 4 way stretch with more horizontal stretch than vertical. Two yarns are fed through the needles at once; one yarn forms the ground fabric, the 2nd yarn forms loops. The loops are clipped and brushed. If they are brushed on one side, it is a brushed poly, if brushed on both sides, it is double brushed poly.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Advantages of Brushed Polyester Fabric:

 

 

1. Brushed poly and esp. double brushed poly is extremely soft. People, especially children, love the fabric because of the softness next to the skin.

 

2. Brushed poly is an extremely easy care fabric. It can go into the washer and dryer and doesn't shrink. It also doesn't pill easily and doesn't wrinkle. It is great for travelling.

 

3. For the wearer, brushed poly is stable and doesn't stretch out as it is being worn which some knits are prone to do. Commercially the fabric was originally used for leggings because it has good recovery and doesn't stretch out as it is worn.

 

4. The fabric has a lovely drape. For a sewist a knit with good drape usually means working with a rayon, bamboo or ITY knit. Double brushed poly has that same wonderful drape and is much easier to sew since it doesn't slip and slide as much.

 

5. Brushed poly has less curl than a cotton jersey making it easier to handle as it is being sewn.

 

6. The fabric is fairly inexpensive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Disadvantages of Brushed Polyester Fabric:

 

 

1. Brushed polyester fabric isn't breathable. The fabric is lightweight and soft which would suggest that it would be great for summer garments, but with the lack of breathability, it can be too warm on a hot and humid day. Although it comes in many children's prints, it may not be suitable for babies who can have trouble regulating their body temperatures because of the lack of breathability.

 

2. The fabric tends to look inexpensive. This is my personal opinion, but I haven't seen the fabric used in high end ready to wear. To me in general, it looks inexpensive.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Tips for sewing with Brushed Polyester Fabric:

 

 

1. Use a Stretch or Jersey Needle and polyester thread. It is a knit fabric and using the correct needle and thread will help reduce skipped stitches.

 

2. Use a walking foot or duel feed. Tension might also have to be lowered. The fabric has some texture to it because of the brushing, and a walking foot or duel feed will help to evenly feed the fabric through the machine.

 

3. When working with a solid, mark the right side of the fabric. Telling the right from wrong side of a solid double brushed poly can be difficult, but because of the nap, there is usually a slight difference in color between the two sides. Make sure to be consistent in treating the same side as the "right" side when sewing the fabric.

 

4. Brushed poly comes in different weights. If purchasing fabric online, check to see the gsm or ounces per yard of the fabric to know whether it is light or medium weight. In the photo below, there is 1 yard of each fabric. The print weighs 7 oz per yard and the solid is 10 oz per yard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Smocking with Brushed Poly:

 

 

Yes, it is possible to smock with brushed poly. It does goes through the pleater and forms uniform pleats. When pleating the fabric, I had more resistance with the brushed poly than with a cotton knit. Also, after blocking, the pleats did not want to hold their shape like a woven or cotton knit does. You can see this in the photo below.

 

 

 

 

 

If smocking brushed poly, I would pick a smocking design that is fairly dense rather than one that is more open to better hold the pleats in place. Also, go with a medium weight brushed poly rather than a lightweight poly. If you have never smocked on knits before, my recommendation is to start with a cotton knit, and preferably a cotton interlock to better get a feel for smocking on knits, and then give a brushed poly a try.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If you give brushed poly a try, send me a dm on Instagram and let me know how it goes!

 

 

A Beginners Guide to Fabric Types

In the textile industry, cloth is the collective term for fabrics and materials used in the production of clothing. Raw fibres go through a process of being twisted together to create threads. These threads are then woven or knit to create a workable material which can then be cut, stitched and turned in to garments.

Fibres can be either synthetic or natural, with the most common natural fibre being cotton and the most popular synthetic fibres being polyester. Each type of fibre is unique and bares different properties; some are sturdy and thick while others are smooth and flexible. Fibres are often combined together into blends giving a combination of desirable qualities.

The application of the clothing determines what type of fibre is used. For example a football shirt would be better suited being made from a synthetic fibre with moisture wicking qualities, than from a material like wool which retains heat.

When you're shopping for new logo branded clothes for your company, determining the proper fabric type is just as important as choosing the right size and color. With so many different kinds of fabric available it can be hard to know what's best for your team's needs. That's why we made this comprehensive guide to the most popular fabrics used to make custom corporate clothing and accessories. Click on a button below to jump to that fabric type, then click into each fabric type to see branded apparel and products made from that kind of material!

 

 

Common Fabrics for Clothing

There are dozens of different fabrics and blends that are commonly used to make custom apparel and company branded accessories. Each kind of fabric comes with different advantages and disadvantages that you should be aware of before you make a decision for your department. Read below for a quick overview of each fabric type for the perfect logo branded piece for your crew!

Cotton is a plant-based natural fiber that has been the go-to choice for custom clothing for thousands of years. There are a few reasons that cotton is the most popular fabric for apparel. Cotton is inexpensive, strong, and easy to clean. Plus, cotton is extremely versatile and can be transformed into many other fabric classifications like Ring-spun Cotton, Cotton Duck, Cotton Canvas, Terry Cloth, Denim, and Flannel.

 

Cotton Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Cotton Fabric

• Comfortable
• Breathable
• Hypoallergenic
• Low Maintenance
• Easy to Decorate
• Machine-Washable

Disadvantages

 

of Cotton Fabric

• Does not dry quickly
• Prone to shrinking

Examples of Cotton Products

 

Polyester might look simple, but it's actually somewhat of a chemistry project! Polyester is a man-made synthetic fiber that's made from a chemical reaction involving air, water, and petroleum. That combination produces an artificial fiber that becomes polyester! Polyester is also thermoplastic, so it can be melted down and reformed shapes, like thread. That thermoplasticity is what makes polyester so stretchy. I bet you didn't come here expecting a science lesson!

 

Polyester Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Polyester Fabric

• Flexible
• Quick-Drying
• Moisture-Wicking
• Wrinkle-Resistant
• Durable
• Comfortable
• Machine-Washable

Disadvantages

 

of Polyester Fabric

• Can stick to sweaty skin
• Sensitive to high temperatures
• Not as breathable as cotton
• Usually not sustainable

Is Polyester Sustainable?

The way that polyester is normally made is not sustainable or good for environment because the process requires the use of fossil fuels. However, there are ways that polyester can be extremely sustainable too! It's not the cheapest way to make polyester, but you can actually create it from recycled materials like plastic water bottles. When polyester is made this way it's not only eco-friendly, it also prevents plastic from reaching landfills and oceans! Here's how it works:

 

Examples of Polyester Products

 

So if cotton comes from plants and polyester comes from science then where does wool come from? Most people know that wool can come from sheep, but wool can also be made from the coat of goats (known as cashmere), alpacas, llamas, camels, musk oxen (qiviut), and even rabbits (angora wool)! To create wool these living animals coats are sheared, cleaned, scoured, and spun into yarn. That wool yarn can then be weaved into clothing garments, blankets, and more.

 

Wool Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Benefits of Wool Fabric

• Warm and Insulating
• Wrinkle-Resistant
• Moisture-Wicking
• Odor-Resistant

Disadvantages

 

of Wool Fabric

• Prone to shrinking
• Can feel scratchy on skin
• Requires special care/ dry cleaning

Examples of

 

Wool Products

 

Fleece isn't as much of its own fabric type as it is a classification of the other fabric types that we've addressed at this point. There's cotton fleece, polyester fleece, wool fleece, and other lesser used varieties of fleece. All types of fleeces have a few things in common though; they're soft, fuzzy, warm, and insulating. That's what makes fleece the ideal material for corporate sweaters, custom embroidered vests, company jackets, and logo branded sweatshirts. Fleece also breathes and wicks moisture very well for an insulating material, so it's great as branded outerwear too!

 

Fleece Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Benefits of Fleece Fabric

• Comfortable
• Breathable
• Water Repellent 
• Hypoallergenic
• Warm and Insulating

Disadvantages

 

of Fleece Fabric

• More difficult to clean
• Can retain odors
• Pilling can be an issue

Examples of

 

Fleece Products

 

 

Technically speaking, sherpa and shearling are two entirely different fabrics. Shearling is a form of wool sheared from a lamb that has only had one shearing, while sherpa is actually a blended fabric made from polyester, acrylic, or cotton. Sherpa fabric gets its name from its similarity to the wooled clothing worn by the Sherpa people of Nepal, but it is often called "faux shearling" for its similarity to shearling fabric. For this reason we've combined them into the same fabric category.

 

Shearling and Sherpa Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Benefits of Sherpa Fabric

• Soft
• Warm and Insulating
• Moisture-Wicking
• Machine-Washable

Disadvantages

 

of Sherpa Fabric

• Gets dirty easily

Examples of Shearling and Sherpa Products

 

Did you know that spandex got its name because it's an anagram for the word "expands"? You learn something new everyday. It makes sense though, the primary benefit of spandex as a fabric is its unparalleled elasticity. Also known as elastane or lycra, spandex is the stretchiest, most flexible corporate apparel fabric around. So much so that a little goes a long way. You usually won't see apparel fabric that's made from more than 15% spandex, even in compression apparel and yoga pants. That's because spandex-heavy fabrics don't let your skin breathe very well.

 

Spandex Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Spandex Fabric

• Stretchy and flexible (4-way stretch)
• Moisture-Wicking
• Durable
• Comfortable

Disadvantages of Spandex Fabric

• Doesn't let your skin breathe
• Sensitive to heat

Examples of Spandex Products

 

Aside from wool, leather is the only type of clothing material that comes from mammals. Leather can be made from the hides of many animals including cows, pigs, sheep, goats, alligators, and more. Cow hides are by far the most popular animal hide used to create real leather. To create leather, hides are stripped of hair and flesh, dried, salted, tanned, dyed, and finished with a finishing spray. This process may sound inhumane, but the animal hides are a byproduct of the meat and dairy industries that would otherwise be wasted if not turned into leather. It is extremely rare for cows to be killed only for their hides.

 

Leather is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Leather

• Tough
• Durable
• Timelessly Stylish

Disadvantages of Leather

• Can get stretch marks
• Not breathable
• Can be expensive

Examples of Leather Products

 

Here's another fabric that comes from nature, although not in the way that you might expect. Silk is a natural protein fiber that is produced by silkworms. Silkworms are actually larvae of silk moths and silk is what they use to make their cocoons. Sounds pretty gross, right? Despite its unpleasant origins, silk is one of the most luxurious and desirable fabrics around. That's because silk is one of the smoothest and softest fabrics on the planet.

 

Silk Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Benefits of Silk Fabric

• Soft and Smooth
• Comfortable
• Strong

Disadvantages

 

of Silk Fabric

• Expensive
• Stains easily
• Requires special care/ dry cleaning

Examples of Silk Products

 

 

If you noticed that we teased the origins of cashmere earlier in the wool section, congratulations, you've been paying close attention! Cashmere is a form of wool that comes specifically from the coat of cashmere goats. Cashmere goats are a rather regal looking breed of goats whose origins trace back to the Himalayan region of Kashmir. Save that one for trivia night. Like wool, cashmere is formed by shearing the coats of the animals and spinning them into yarn that's used to create clothing.

Cashmere Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Cashmere Fabric

• Soft
• Warm and Insulating
• Lightweight and Breathable
• Wrinkle-Resistant
• Elegant

Disadvantages of Cashmere Fabric

• Not very durable
• Pilling can be an issue
• Requires special care/ dry cleaning

Examples of Cashmere Products

 

Linen fabric clothing is known for being especially lightweight and breathable, making it the perfect fabric for hot summer days. Like cotton, linen fabric is made from plants. In the case of linen, its fibers from the flax plant called "Linum Usitatissimum" that are spun, combed, and woven into sheets. Linen material is ideal for corporate branded dress shirts, custom company hats, branded journals and notebooks. 

Linen Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Linen Fabric

• Breathable
• Comfortable
• Durable
• Low Maintenance
• Machine-Washable

Disadvantages

 

of Linen Fabric

• Wrinkles easily
• Prone to shrinking

Examples of Linen Products

 

French terry, or terry cloth, is a form of cotton fabric that's popular for loungewear and towels. The way that french terry fabric is made causes one side of the fabric to be smooth and soft while the other side features loops and soft piles of yarn. The soft piles are super comfy on your skin, so that side of the fabric is almost always on the inside of the garment. Popular french terry apparel items include corporate french terry sweatshirts, custom french terry pullovers, logo branded robes, and more! Those piles are also very absorbent, so they're great for logo branded towels too.

 

French Terry Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Benefits of French Terry Cloth

• Comfortable
• Highly Absorbent
• Flexible
• Midweight

Disadvantages

 

of French Terry Cloth

• Prone to fraying
• Too thick for warmer climates

Examples of French Terry Products

 

Here's another synthetic fabric with an interesting history. Up until World War II, Nylon was only used for toothbrush bristles. Then the US military started using nylon for parachutes and it instantly became one of the most popular fabrics in America. The reasons that nylon was a great material for parachutes are the same reasons that nylon works well for custom raincoats, logo branded jackets, corporate backpacks, and duffel bags too - ripstop nylon is extremely tough, durable, and water-resistant.

 

Nylon Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Nylon Fabric

• Waterproof
• Wind-Resistant
• Versatile
• UV Protective
• Doesn't shrink
• Tough and durable

Disadvantages of Nylon Fabric

• Not very breathable
• Can be difficult to clean

Examples of Nylon Products

 

Yes, hemp is made from cannabis plants. No, hemp is not marijuana. Hemp is a strain of the Cannabis sativa plant that's harvested and spun into yarn. Hemp is actually one of the first plants that were ever spun into fiber for yarn more than 10,000 years ago. Hemp plants are also among the fastest growing plants, making them a great source for fabric. Hemp material creates a perfect backdrop to showcase your company's unique logo on logo branded hats, corporate tote bags, branded t-shirts, and more! However, the perception that hemp is marijuana has prevented it from becoming a more popular fabric for apparel. 

 

 

Hemp Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Hemp Fabric

• Sustainable
• Strong
• Hypoallergenic
• Breathable
• UV Resistant

Disadvantages of Hemp Fabric

• Wrinkles easily
• Can be scratchy

Examples of Hemp Products

 

 

Quilted fabric is more of a technique than a fabric type, but it still comes with its own set of pros and cons. Quilting is done by sewing two layers of fabric, usually cotton or blended fabric, together to create a thick and padded material. In between the two layers of fabric there is usually an insulating material like wool or cotton. The material is sewn in a cross-hatch style pattern to prevent the insulating material from sinking to the bottom of the garment.

Quilted Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Advantages of Quilted Fabric

• Warm and insulating
• Comfy
• Packable

Disadvantages

 

of Quilted Fabric

• Can retain moisture longer
• Not among the most durable fabrics

Examples of Quilted Fabric Products

 

 

 

Not to be confused with suede, which is a form of soft leather with a napped finish, sueded fabric is usually made from cotton or silk. The fabric is then brushed or sanded to give it a smoother finish, similar to suede. Brushed sueded fabric is softer to the touch than unbrushed fabric, making it especially ideal for shirts that make direct contact with the skin.

 

Sueded Fabric is Commonly Used For...

Benefits of Sueded Fabric

• Soft and smooth
• Comfortable
• Durable

Disadvantages

 

of Sueded Fabric

• Easier to damage

Examples of Sueded Fabric Products

 

Did you know that denim is made from 100% cotton? It doesn't seem possible that your blue jeans and t-shirts could come from the same plant, but that's the case! Denim is made by a specific method of twill weaving that creates a diagonal twill line. This method of weaving is what makes denim feel stronger and sturdier than traditional cotton garments. Aside from the classic pair of jeans, denim material is great for custom denim long sleeve shirts, logo branded denim tote bags, corporate denim hats, and more!

 

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